Nobody tells you that the wax palms of the Valle de Cocora will make you cry. They're just trees, technically — the tallest palm trees in the world, shooting straight up into the clouds like something from a dream. But standing there with my three girls, watching them look up in total silence for the first time in approximately four hours, I felt something shift.
This is why we do this. This exact moment.
"Why have a tantrum in your living room when you can have it in front of the most beautiful landscape you've ever seen?"
— A Life Moore LivedGetting to the Valle de Cocora means flying into Salento, a small coffee town in Colombia's Quindío region that looks like it was designed specifically to make you want to stay forever. Brightly painted buildings, friendly locals, and coffee so good you'll question every cup you've had before.
The Hike
The trail into the valley is about 6–8 km depending on which loop you take. We did the full loop — partly because I am incapable of doing anything halfway, and partly because Florence had declared herself the official trip leader and she was not turning around.
Somewhere between 'are we there yet' and 'I never want to leave'
The hike includes a section through cloud forest that is genuinely magical — misty, lush, and full of hummingbirds. Pack layers. It goes from warm to cool faster than you'd expect, especially once you're in the clouds.
Practical Notes for Families
We started early — 8am — to beat both the heat and the crowds. By 11am the trail was significantly busier. Bring snacks, plenty of water, and good shoes. The terrain is uneven in places and can be muddy after rain.
Left: the girls somewhere in the cloud forest. Right: a quick detour to Cartagena on the way home.
"Start early, bring snacks, and let the youngest one think she's leading. Everyone gets home happy."
Where We Stayed
We stayed in Salento town center — walkable to everything, easy to find great food, and genuinely charming at every hour. Two nights was enough to do the valley hike and explore the town. Three nights if you want to slow down and actually breathe.
Colombia with kids is one of the best decisions we've made. It's warm, welcoming, wildly beautiful, and endlessly surprising. We'll be back.