This place. Wow. If you are into natural beauty that seems untouched, Theth National Park in northern Albania is the place for you and your family. There are endless trails, the food is a hiker's dream, and the town has just enough sleepy charm to make you want to stay forever.

When I went to research Theth National Park for families, there wasn't a lot of information available. One of the blogs I read indicated we would need to take a 4x4 vehicle into the park — this is not accurate. The mountain road is well paved and easy to navigate. I hope this post eases and enhances your family's trip to Theth, because it is truly worth the adventure!

Getting There: Our Route

The views from the mountain pass — worth every white-knuckle moment of the drive

The road we travelled — and the most direct option — breaks off in the town of Koplik. If you need provisions (fresh produce, more variety in snacks), this is the place to stock up. Options inside the park are very limited, and you will regret not stopping.

The drive to Theth National Park is a 1.5 hour "athletic drive" over two mountain passes with some incredible views. There aren't many places to pull over, so when you see the opportunity, take it. The road is two-way but things get dicey — be prepared to use your passenger side brake. If your kids get motion sick, make sure you are prepared. We always have reusable bags and kids' Dramamine on hand.

Once you have arrived over the second pass, you can relax and enjoy the mountain air and pure serenity. Welcome to Theth!

Where to Stay

The village of Theth — quiet, beautiful, and completely unhurried

The view from our room. Yes, this was every morning.

You can also stay in local family houses — a more immersive, memorable experience and a wonderful way to support the community directly.

Where to Eat

The Hikes

The rock hike — the geology alone is worth it

The whole crew — happy, sweaty, and not ready to go home

Beyond the Trails

Things to Know Before You Go

There are trips you take for the views, and there are trips that actually change something in you. Our visit to La Palma coffee farm — a working finca in Colombia's El Cafetero region — was the latter. As a family of five, we chose this as an excursion during our stay in the coffee region, and I can honestly say it was one of the most educational, eye-opening, and unexpectedly moving experiences of the trip.

If you drink coffee — and I mean really drink coffee — you owe it to yourself to visit a farm like this at least once.

Why Visit a Coffee Farm?

La Palma — one of approximately 200 coffee farms in the El Cafetero region

We went for three reasons: education, environment, and ethics. Understanding where your coffee actually comes from — not just the country on the bag, but the hands that picked it, the soil it grew in, the process that brought it to your cup — fundamentally shifts how you consume it. Colombia produces some of the highest quality coffee in the world, but possibly some of the lowest quality as well. This was the perfect place to learn the distinction.

What We Learned

The details that change everything — once you know, you can't unknow

There are two main types of coffee bean: Arabica and Robusta. Colombia grows almost exclusively Arabica, which is prized for its complexity, smoothness, and nuanced flavor. Within Colombia alone there are 19 varieties of the Robusta strain called Castillo. La Palma is one of approximately 200 coffee farms in the region — each one producing something slightly different depending on elevation, soil, and microclimate.

And yet most of us care more about our streaming subscriptions than we do about the coffee we consume EVERY morning (and sometimes several times per morning). Several years ago I learned that coffee is a very regulated commodity, making it also one of the most heavily sprayed crops in the world — you can't risk diminishing your yield. When you stop and think about how much coffee you drink in a lifetime, it is just as important to consider WHICH coffee you choose. If you're swapping conventional items for organic, do not skip coffee. This farm tour only confirmed my prior knowledge of the mess that is the bustling coffee industry.

One of the most fascinating things our guide shared was about bad beans — called "pasea" — which are defective beans sometimes mixed with lentils, rice, and artificial flavors to bulk up lower-quality products. It's the kind of thing you never think about until someone shows you, and then you can't stop thinking about it. We came home and looked at every bag of coffee in our kitchen differently.

The beans themselves are stored and transported in bags made from the fibers of the penca tree — a natural, biodegradable material that reflects the farm's commitment to working with the land rather than against it.

The Farm Walk

The farm walk — steep, beautiful, and completely worth it

We walked through part of the farm — and I want to be honest with you: it is steep. Beautifully, dramatically steep, clinging to a hillside in a way that makes you understand immediately why this work is so physically demanding. Our guide mentioned that leopards had been spotted in the area, which delighted my girls in the way that only slightly terrifying wildlife news can.

Along the way we tasted seasonal citrus growing on the farm — bright, fresh, and perfectly sour in the mountain air. When we finally tasted the coffee itself, the tasting notes made sense in a way they never had before. Notes of chocolate. The faint smell of flowers in the dry beans. You stop tasting coffee and start actually experiencing it.

Why It Matters

Visiting a farm like La Palma isn't just a nice excursion — it's a form of accountability. When you see the labor, the land stewardship, and the craft that goes into a single bag of quality coffee, you become a more intentional consumer. You start asking questions: Where is this from? Who grew it? Is this a reputable brand?

Those questions matter — for the farmers, for the environment, and for the integrity of what ends up in your cup.

After living in Kotor, Montenegro for three months as a family of five, I have a lot to say. Some of it is practical, some of it is a heads-up about nuisances, and some of it is simply: go. Here are my biggest takeaways.

The Bay of Kotor — one of the most beautiful bodies of water in Europe

The best way to see Kotor — from the water

🚗 2. Take the Serpentine Road to the top of the Cable Car

• If the name sounds a little daunting, you're not wrong. This is an original road from the Austro-Hungarian Empire containing 24 hairpin turns, one right after the other. There are moments when the two-lane road seems impassable for two cars — but somehow it always is. The views along the way are expansive and breathtaking. Taking this drive is like stepping back in time, and the view at the top makes every white-knuckle moment worth it.

Above the clouds — the view from the top of the cable car is worth every hairpin turn

⚠️ 3. Be very cautious as a pedestrian

• Unfortunately, drivers can be quite aggressive just about everywhere. I imagine growing up in such a mountainous region turns you into something of a race car driver — but all joking aside, during our visit we witnessed far too many close calls between erratic drivers and pedestrians. Always make eye contact before crossing. The driver comes first, the pedestrian comes second.

🥩 4. Eat all the meat you can

• It is so delicious. From the ćevapi (sausage-like grilled meat) to the tomahawk steaks, you will not be disappointed. Our favorite local BBQ spot had over 6,000 reviews and a constant line out the door — BBQ Tanja — you will not regret a stop here.

Good meat, good wine, good company — a regular evening in Kotor

🛍️ 5. Do not underestimate the mall

• A Montenegrin mall has it all — a pharmacy with helpful staff, a grocery store, a gym, a cosmetics store with organic food finds, and even clothing stores. During our visit we lived right next to the mall and had pretty much everything we needed within walking distance.

🅿️ 6. Parking is either expensive or nearly impossible

• Either pay to park in a lot (which may mean a one-in, one-out situation at peak season) or try your luck along the sea — your best bet for a spot is early morning or after 5pm. The best approach is to enjoy the city on foot as much as possible.

🏛️ 7. Take a history walking tour

• This part of the world is extraordinarily rich in history. I learned more in three months than I did in years of formal schooling. Walking through the Old Town or hiking up to one of the many forts with a guide is genuinely worth it — do not skip this.

One of the many forts above Kotor — history you can actually walk through

Lunch at the mussel farm — mussels, oysters, and fresh fish. Three items on the menu. All you need.

🚢 10. Have you ever been inside a submarine?

• Just 20 minutes from Kotor in Porto Montenegro sits a retired submarine that was in active use until 1999. Make sure to get a guided tour. I have never seen my kids so completely captivated by information being thrown at them. It was a treasure for everyone in the family.

The submarine base at Porto Montenegro — outside and in

Three months in Kotor — and we'd do it again in a heartbeat

🚗 11. Use Piano Rentals for your car rental

• After many frustrating experiences and outright scammy scenarios with online reservations, Piano Rentals was by far our best experience. Do yourself a favor and book directly with them.

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